An engagement ring is not just a symbol of love and commitment; it’s a work of art that combines various elements of design, craftsmanship, and history. Every aspect of an engagement ring holds significance, whether it’s the choice of the stone, the metal, or the setting. Understanding the anatomy of an engagement ring can help you make an informed choice when selecting a ring for someone special, or simply allow you to appreciate the beauty and craftsmanship that goes into creating such a sentimental piece of jewellery.
1. Centre Stone:
At the core of every engagement ring is the centre stone, usually a diamond, although sapphires, emeralds, rubies, and other coloured gemstones are also becoming popular choices. The centre stone serves as the focal point of the ring, representing the love and commitment between the two individuals.
Diamonds are the most popular choice due to their durability and timeless appeal, but what makes the stone truly unique is the “4Cs” that determine its quality:
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Cut: The cut refers to how the diamond is shaped and faceted. A well-cut diamond will sparkle more and reflect light more effectively, enhancing its brilliance.
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Colour: Diamonds come in a range of colours, from completely colourless to shades of yellow and brown. When it comes to white diamonds, the less colour the diamond has, the more valuable it is.
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Clarity: Clarity refers to the presence of any imperfections or inclusions in the diamond. The fewer inclusions, the clearer the stone, and the higher the clarity grade.
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Carat Weight: This is unit of which a diamond's size is measured. One carat equals 0.2 grams, and as a diamond's weight increases, the price will typically increase provided the cut, colour and clarity remain the same.
While diamonds are traditional, gemstones like sapphires are gaining popularity. They are available in stunning blue hues (among other colours) and are also durable enough for everyday wear.
2. The Shank or Band:
The band of an engagement ring is the circular piece of metal that holds the settings. This component may also be referred to as the shank. While it may seem simple, the band is a significant aspect of the overall design, as it affects the ring's aesthetic and comfort.
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Material: Engagement rings crafted in the Hogans workshop are made from solid precious metals such as 18k gold (yellow, white, or rose) or platinum. Platinum is known for its durability and hypoallergenic properties, while 18k gold is more malleable and available in various shades. Each metal type offers a distinct look and feel and should be considered carefully to suit your requirements. White gold for example requires rhodium plating every 12 - 18 months to maintain its shine, whereas yellow and rose gold do not.
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Width and Shape: The band can be designed to be wide or thin depending on the wearer’s taste. Some rings feature intricate patterns or internal engraving to personalise the design and make it even more sentimental. The shape of the band (whether it’s round, flat, or beveled) will also affect its comfort and appearance and is an important discussion point when designing a bespoke engagement ring, or selecting a ready-to-wear piece from our showcase collection.
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Finish: The finish of the band can range from polished to matte. A polished band shines with a reflective surface, while a matte finish gives a more subdued, modern appearance. A brushed finish, often found in men’s rings, creates a textured look.
3. Shoulders:
The shoulders refer to the part of the rings that join the band to the stone setting.
4. Claws:
Claws, or prongs, on an engagement ring are essential for securing the stones. There are several types and con each offering a distinct look. 4-claw settings provide a classic, minimalistic design, allowing more of the diamond to be visible. 6-claw settings offer added security and a more rounded, symmetrical appearance. V-claws form a pointed shape at the tip, offering a unique, contemporary style while enhancing the diamond's brilliance. Double claws feature two prongs on each corner for extra security and an elegant, detailed look. Each claw type can be customised to suit personal preferences, enhancing both beauty and durability.
5. Underail:
The underrail of an engagement ring refers to the area beneath the band, where the ring's shank meets the underside of the ring's settings. Often overlooked, this feature plays an important role in the overall design and comfort of the ring. A well-designed underrail ensures a smooth, secure fit on the finger while preventing any discomfort. Some rings feature additional design elements, such as small diamonds or intricate detailing, enhancing their aesthetic appeal. The underrail is also essential for the durability and longevity of the ring, providing structural support while allowing the centre stone to sit securely in place.
6. Hallmark & Stamps:
When you purchase a piece of fine jewellery, you're investing in a legacy of craftsmanship, tradition, and authenticity. One of the most important yet often overlooked aspects of jewellery is the hallmark stamp, a tiny yet powerful symbol etched into the precious metal we use.
An engagement ring is more than just jewellery; it is a symbol of love, commitment, and the beginning of a lifelong journey. The anatomy of an engagement ring is composed of multiple elements that work together to create a piece of jewelry that is not only visually stunning but also meaningful. Whether you opt for a classic diamond with a simple band or a more intricate design with multiple stones, the anatomy of an engagement ring tells a story of love that lasts a lifetime. If you're interested in booking a 1:1 engagement ring consultation with one of our award-winning jewellery designers, please
visit our booking page.
